Dilled Grilled Squid with Beet Skordalia

In preparation for my research trip to Australia, I spoke with a lot of Ozzie grill masters. Melbourne, I was told, boasts one of the largest Greek communities outside of Athens, and a strong Greek influence is apparent in the local grilling. Consider this dill- and garlic-scented squid served with a crimson beet skordalia (a sort of garlic-potato mayonnaise), the creation of Stavros Abougelis, owner of a popular Melbourne restaurant that bears his name.