Risotto aux Fruits de Mer

The expression fruits de mer means little unless one has lived for a time on the shores of the Mediterranean, where the fruits de mer or frutta di mare are brought up from the beach every day, to appear for the midday meal. Clams, eaten uncooked as salty apéritifs, little crabs which have a milky sweetness, small octopi fried in batter with fresh anchovies and fresh sardines, and scampi, grilled with a dressing of herbs, oil, and piquant tomato sauce. They