Caneton au Beurre d’Écrevisses

This dish originates in the district of La Bresse, one of the richest regions of France, lying to the south of Burgundy, and famous for its grain-fed pullets and superb dishes which often combine unmatched poultry with rich cream, crayfish, and mushrooms. An Aylesbury duckling is the nearest English equivalent to a caneton de Bresse. A duckling weighs between 3 and 4 lb; its underbill should be flexible, the webbing on its feet soft, and its breast meaty denoting a well-fed bird.