This recipe is a bit of a solution – what to do with all the hard bits of Parmesan skins, or rinds, left after grating. In restaurants you get loads, so it’s common to use them for soups and sauces. At home, you can collect the skins over time and keep them in the freezer. If you don’t have enough you can always add more grated Parmesan. An entirely vegetarian substitute for Parmesan is produced in Sussex – check out www.bookhamcheese.co.uk.