Caramelized fennel with goat’s curd

Goat’s curd, a light cheese made from goat’s milk, is gaining popularity for its soft and creamy, yet not terribly unctuous, texture and for its wonderful freshness. It’s hard to get, though. Your best bet is to try Neal’s Yard Dairy, in London, where it is stocked occasionally.

Still, there is no need to get despondent if you can’t find it. There is an abundance of young and fresh goat’s cheeses that will do the trick equally well. My favourite is Caprini freschi, from Piedmont in