Here asparagus spears are simply cooked on a ridged griddle pan. The fact that they are not boiled means that they keep more of their original flavour. The texture, though, is slightly more sinewy than when boiling or steaming. I suggest using a mild feta, not too salty, or another type of mild ewe’s cheese from the Balkans (see Dates and Turkish ewe’s cheese). Serve warm, as a starter, or as part of a mezze spread.