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By Yotam Ottolenghi

Published 2010

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On a visit to southern France my partner, Karl, and I were taken to Grain de Sel, a minute restaurant in the village of Cogolin, run by an inspiring couple, Anne and Philippe Audibert. Among other brilliant dishes made from local produce that Philippe buys daily in the local market, I was served a variation on the renowned pissaladière. Instead of the normal dough base, Philippe used socca batter, a speciality of Nice made from chickpea flour, water and olive oil. He was generous enough to