Back in the 1990s I was the pastry chef at Launceston Place, a restaurant in London that was regularly haunted by politicians, English nobility and, most notably, by Princess Diana. In those days – and how dated this seems now – they had a delicious double-baked goat’s cheese soufflé starter. It never came off the menu and had also become a regular feature in many other restaurants. The only variation allowed was the sweet seasonal condiment that came with it. This is my li