Oranges & anchovies

Food has travelled whenever people have, conquering or being conquered. And that the south of Italy and Spain are home to citrus galore is due to the Arabs, who brought it with them in the Middle Ages, together with cane sugar, aubergines and other foods. Centuries later, it’s impossible to imagine Sicily or Andalucia without oranges, or the Amalfi coast without lemons — but these foods were once culinary aliens.

The little dish that follows is not really a recipe; I could be melodr