Sandra Holl of Floriole Cafe and Bakery taught me the secret to a complex caramel sauce is to hold your nerve and really let it smoke from the center. I’ve taken it further than I care to admit and have never had a caramel sauce that tastes burnt, so when in doubt, try to channel your inner daredevil and let it go. The only thing to note is to use a deeper pot than you might imagine because it really does bubble up violently when the cream is added (because the moisture in
