I have known Hannah as long as I can remember. My father, Tony, and Hannah’s mother, Margaret, used to do ‘fire watching’ from the rooftop of Manchester University at the end of World War II, and the two families have remained close friends ever since. Recently, Hannah’s father, Peter, ‘came out’ as having been a spy during the war. He is now allowed to talk about it as he has been released from his sworn secrecy after 50 years. He worked for MI6 (British Intelligence Services), sending coded messages back to the UK from Addis Ababa, Izmir and Istanbul. This is Hannah’s recipe, passed down from Margaret, who got it from Elizabeth David and, as recipes do, it has evolved on the way.