Mushrooms and Kidneys

Toward the beginning of Ulysses, Leopold Bloom famously buys, fries, and eats a pork kidney, which gave “to his breath the faint tang of urine.” It’s not the way to sell kidneys to a larger audience, but then, James Joyce wasn’t exactly a food writer. Bloom liked pork kidneys, which I find bigger and not as tender as lamb kidneys, my preferred breakfast organ meat. Lamb kidneys are firm-textured and slightly, appealingly, chewy, with a good meaty flavor. They’re read