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By Fred Plotkin
Published 1997
An old Ligurian expression records that when you are hungry, even bread can taste like meat. For people who were once frugal or poor, this preparation filled empty stomachs. In San Remo it is often referred to as bisteca sanremasca (or San Remo steak). I sampled this first near La Spezia and, as always, the flavor was outstanding because of the quality of the ingredients. There are distinctions to be understood: In the Levante (especially in the province of La Spezia near the border