This is an adaptation of a recipe given to me by Laura Rossana, a smiling fruit and vegetable seller at stand 54 of the San Remo market. Cima means “summit” in Italian, and indeed cima is the summit of the school of cooking that says “Non si spreca niente” (“Nothing should ever be wasted”), which is what Laura admonishes. Cima can be served tepid or cold, accompanied by a Salsa alle Erbe