Sciumette

Just up the road from where I live in Camogli is the town of Recco, arguably the best food town in Liguria. Although it is most famous for focaccia col formaggio, trofie al pesto, and cappon magro, the particularly deft hand of the typical Recco chef is also suitable for the preparation of sciumette, the Ligurian word for “little sponges.” They are not unlike the French dessert oeufs à la neige, which look like icebergs floating in a dark yellow sea. While I woul