This delicious summer stew from Liguria makes the best use of the fresh, light tasting courgettes and tiny potatoes available in that area. In Italy, where the calves are milk-fed and are killed very young, this would be a quick dish – probably only 30 minutes’ simmering with tender meat. But for Northern Europe, where the calves are older, I have allowed extra simmering time.
Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pan, add the garlic and fry until soft. Add the celery, carrot, onion and veal and brown the meat on all sides.
Pour in the wine and cook for 5 minutes to let the alcohol evaporate, then add the potatoes and the stock. Simmer gently for about 1½ hours, until the meat is approaching tenderness. Then add the tomatoes, tomato paste, courgettes and oregano. Season and cook gently for a further 20 minutes, adding a little more stock if required. Serve hot with salad and dry white wine.
© 1995 Valentina Harris. All rights reserved.