The Malay word gulai can refer to a traditional cooking method or to a dish. I grew up eating this gulai prepared by my late mother and I call it gulai Pahang in honour of her. To me, she made the best gulai, and her secret must be that she used the traditional grinding stone to grind the spices. I prepared and served this dish with nasi tomato and tangy acar nenas saffron at the start of my MasterChef UK journey. The positive comments I received for it are a tribute to my wonderful, loving mother.