Whenever I visit a Greek restaurant, I invariably find myself with a craving for some hummus and a charcoal-grilled lamb kebab. Initially, I would do the usual thing and start with the hummus and go on to the grilled kebab. But once, a little while back, my finishing off the hummus coincided with the arrival of the kebab, and I couldn’t resist dipping one into the other, along with some pickled chillies. The combination was every bit as good as the more traditional lamb chops, mint sauce an