This recipe came to me over thirty years ago as a friend’s childhood reminiscence. But she told it with such desire and nostalgia I soon felt as if it were my own. Betty Stark was raised by a very wealthy, very strict New England grandmother. Only once a year, on her birthday, was she allowed to chose whatever she wanted to eat. And every year it was the same favorites: leg of lamb, these roasted potatoes, string beans, and crisp meringues with vanilla ice cream a