These small, tender, celadon-hued French beans, the traditional accom-paniment to lamb, are my favorite of all beans. They are not at all pasty and, when properly cooked, have a nice bite. It was a French chef from Limousin who taught me the simple but terrific technique of sautéing the cooked beans in the roasting pan of meat drippings. Michel held some strangely inventive theories about food. Perhaps the funniest of all was his explanation for why there are so many fat chefs: “Because they eat with their hands. There are large pores in the fingertips that absorb the food, which they handle all day, directly into the blood stream.” Well, I was stupid enough to have asked! But
Most flageolets must be soaked before cooking, either overnight or with the quick-soaking method (see Pointers for Success).
|black pepper, freshly ground||•||•|
|cayenne pepper||a sprinkling||•||•|
*These French beans are available in specialty food stores such as Dean & DeLuca.
Wash the flageolets and pick out and discard any stones or shriveled beans. Place them in a medium saucepan and add unsalted water to cover by
When ready to cook, drain off the water, rinse the flageolets and add fresh unsalted water to cover by
Remove the beans from the heat, add the
When the leg of lamb is done and resting on a carving board, raise the oven temperature to 400°F. Drain off all but about
NOTE: If desired,
© 1992 Rose Levy Beranbaum. All rights reserved.