This is adapted from a recipe by my friend Shuna Fish Lydon, a pastry chef and a fine writer. The cookies were originally slated for the sugar chapter because their structure is so dependent on that ingredient, but I found they did such a good job of showing how a cookie behaved that I decided to showcase them here. Shuna uses less sugar, which results in a very traditional cookie. More sugar makes these chewier and thicker. If you want them thin, simply double the butter.