Garlic and lemon courgettes with girolle mushrooms and crème fraîche

Courgettes are available all year round but they aren’t good all year round. Recently harvested, they are delicately flavoured and crunchy. Chilled and stored for air freighting across the globe, they turn dry and coarse. During the summer, they are worthy of extra effort and will make an interesting starter. Their usual accompaniment is tomato, but later in the season when the first wild mushrooms appear they can be given this treatment.

My introduction to mushroom-gathering came d