I vividly recall eating leeks vinaigrette for the first time at Père Lachaise cemetery in Paris in 1996. I was off to find the tombs of Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf and Chopin and had stopped in a deli to get some rillettes and bread, and bought these marinated leeks. I fell in love with them then and there. The salt-baked carrots and parsnips are very ‘on trend’, although, like me, you may have been baking whole fish in a salt crust for years a