Alan Chadwick and a Lovage Sandwich

Alan Chadwick, the noted gardener who introduced the French Intensive Method of gardening to this country, had strong opinions about many things, including food. His memory and appreciation for the old ways of doing things were clear and deep, and he could speak wisely and hypnotically about food, from Turkish delight (clouds of sugar rising) to stuffed marrows. When he described a dish, he began with the plant in the garden—its precise condition and age— and then went on to give equally ex