Flageolets are small, pale green beans with a delicate flavor. One can buy them here, imported from France, but they aren’t difficult to grow. When allowed to mature and then harvested from the pods and cooked while plump with moisture, they make an exquisite treat. If they are not available where you live, use small white navy or lima beans in their place.

In this gratin they are combined with braised artichokes and leeks, layered with soft, creamy goat cheese, lightly covered with