To Fry Sillocks

• sillocks
• salt
• oatmeal
• butter

‘The perfect dish of sillocks must be caught and cooked by the consumers. When the moon rises on a late summer’s night, you must fish far out on a sea moved only by the slow, broad Atlantic swell. And the little mountain of sillocks, the reward of cold but exciting hours, must be “dite” (cleaned) in a moonlit rockpool. Then home at cockcrow.

‘Around the kitchen fire, while the rest of t