Risotto alla Birra

The chef has an open face and lots of energy. He and his family are grabbing a quick bite to eat at the large kitchen table just before the lunch service. He knows he has two to three busy hours ahead, for today is market day in Vercelli, and his restaurant, Vecchia Breuta, is only a few steps from the Piazza Cavour, the heart of the market. His small dining room holds four rows of tables, each covered with a plain white tablecloth. When we come out of the kitchen and sit down, several of t