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Published 1974
To baptize this kind of salad canaille, underlining the French affection for the delinquent and the demi-monde, is to suggest a quality of refreshing vitality allied to insolence—a certain flaunting refusal to respect accepted formulas. And, indeed, one need not often respect any of the endless and precisely defined classical recipes for composed salads (Niçoise, Waldorf, Andalous, Mimosa, Francillon, Bagration, and so forth interminably) to be struck with the puerility of such a pas