In view of the number of friends who nourish a passion for this preparation—a passion I understand intellectually but nonetheless fail to share (perhaps simply because pure liver I like only pinkly cooked and, in its unadorned state, pork liver does not number among those foods I most love), an unselfish impulse has banished my hesitation to give the recipe.
You will need a highly flavored, richly gelatinous stock. If you have veal stock on hand, use it—or a leftover pot-au-feu or poule-au-pot broth. Otherwise, make up a solid, vulgar stock out of pork and veal bones, beef, pork, and veal parings, chicken backs and necks, etc. A veal knuckle will lend sufficient gelatinous content or, lacking that, add a pig’s foot. Prepare it as usual, the meats and bones covered with cold water, brought slowly to a boil, skimmed several times. Add a pound of carrots, an onion stuck with a couple of cloves, a head of garlic, and a big bouquet garni packed with leek greens, celery, thyme, bay leaf, any other herbs that meet your fancy, and, by all means, if available, a branch of lovage, and coarse salt. Cook at a bare simmer, lid ajar, for about 4 hours, and strain.
To make it in larger quantity, the proportions need not be respected to the letter, the precise quantity of liquid necessary depending on the size and form of the cooking vessel in relation to the liver.
Old bed sheets (cotton or linen), torn into squares, are useful both for wrapping the meat and for straining the jelly.