Cod in Red Wine Sauce

Raito is the name of the sauce in which any number of fish—eel, conger eel, whiting, halibut, fresh haddock, sliced, fileted, or cut into sections, may be gently stewed after having been lightly pan fried. Salt cod, alone, is prepared in a raito (or sometimes in a capilotade—chopped onions cooked in olive oil, flour stirred in, moistened with water and vinegar to taste, bouquet garni, and a handful of capers; in parts of the Var, the vinegar is replaced by a glass of