In my own experience, the intensity of frog flavor and the size of the legs are directly, but inversely, related, the one diminishing as the other swells . . . Nonetheless, for recipes requiring boned frogs’ legs, it is more practical to work with relatively large specimens (about 2 ounces per pair). The boning, itself, is very simple, the flesh being practically free of the bones except for the tendon attachments at the joints.
The form is a matter of personal preference; I prefer the cappelletti shape to the usual ravioli square. The buttered fumet is the simplest and most rapidly prepared of sauce possibilities; peeled, seeded, chopped, butter-stewed tomatoes may be incorporated into it—or sorrel—or the fumet, rather than being reduced, may be transformed into a velouté, creamed and/or buttered. Or the reduced fumet may replace the cream in the stuffing, the sauce being replaced by a brown butter.
Poach the frog flesh in the strained fumet, bringing the liquid to the boiling point over a moderate flame; if the saucepan is of a heavy material, the heat may be turned off the moment the boil is reached, the flesh being left to poach and to cool in the liquid, the pan covered; in a pan that loses heat rapidly, maintain the liquid at a simmer for one minute and then remove from the heat and leave, covered, to cool. Strain, saving the poaching liquid.
Soak the breadcrumbs in the cream, mashing with a fork, until all the cream has been soaked up, mash in the butter, add the herbs, seasonings, and yolks, stirring vigorously, then stir in the frog meat.
Check method of preparing and stuffing the dough here and here; for cappelletti, prepare 3-inch-diameter rounds and form half moons, as for the koldouny, forcing the tips backwards to join and pinching them together.
Drop ravioli into a large pot of salted boiling water to which a spoonful or so of olive oil has been added and, when it returns to a boil, cook at a simmer for about 5 minutes. Drain and serve the sauce apart: Reduce the fumet to a syrupy consistency—until about ½ cup of liquid remains—and whisk in the butter away from the heat.
Copyright © 1974 by Richard Olney. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.