Sautés, stews, trussed whole chickens, and chicken pilafs, all doctored to suit the Mediterranean palate with olive oil, tomato, cayenne, garlic, peppers, onions, olives . . . are abandoned to a confusion of names that shift aimlessly among ingredients and garnishes from one reference book to another, poulet à la Nimoise, à la Niçoise, or à la Basquaise in one becoming à la Vauclusienne, à l’Arlésienne, or à la Marseillaise in the other—none all that different from à la Portugaise or à l’Espagnole.

If prepared in a sauce, rather than as an element in a pilaf, de-glaze with white wine after the vegetables have been sautéed, and add tomatoes at that time, preparing a pilaf, plain or saffroned, apart as accompaniment.

Butter-stewed artichoke hearts may be added at the same time as the olives; slices of eggplant fried in olive oil and drained and/or coin-thin slices of zucchini sautéed rapidly in olive oil provide a delicious terminal garnish. For a guestless meal, prepare it with wings alone—or leftover backs and necks.