Miso-Marinated Grilled Salmon

Most of us have tasted miso soup in Japanese restaurants—I never tire of it—but few of us make it ourselves. Miso is a salty paste made from fermented soy beans; it is far more aromatic and delicately flavored than most soy sauce. It makes a perfect marinade and glaze for grilled foods including, of course, salmon. Miso comes in various colors, ranging from very pale brown, almost beige, to deep reddish brown. In general, paler miso paste is more mild and less salty. When given a choice, I