Wash the collards and pull out the tough center ribs (anything thicker than a pencil). Stack the leaves, roll them up, and cut the roll crosswise into ½-inch (12-mm) strips. Put in a bag and refrigerate if doing this in the morning.
In a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. When it shimmers, add the garlic and chiles. Cook, stirring, until the garlic is golden, about 3 minutes. Pile in the collards and toss with tongs for 2 to 3 minutes. Add a good pinch of salt and
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