French Croutes with Onion Jam and Scrambled Eggs

In southwest France, slices of dense baguette, thinly cut on the diagonal, are called croutes. Such slices are the perfect size to hold this incredibly savory topping. Needless to say, eating it requires a knife and fork.

This dish is a creation of Lucien Vanel, a former two-star chef from Toulouse, now retired. Typical of his cooking, it reveals his keen talent for contrasting textures and flavors. Here, crumbly bits of cooked black sausage and a dollop of l