In southwest France, slices of dense baguette, thinly cut on the diagonal, are called croutes. Such slices are the perfect size to hold this incredibly savory topping. Needless to say, eating it requires a knife and fork.
This dish is a creation of
Vanel taught me to scramble eggs in a small pan set in a larger one filled with simmering water to achieve the appropriate creaminess. (A double boiler gets too hot.) The trick is to undercook the eggs, then allow them to finish cooking off the fire in their receding heat. “If they look done,” Vanel told me, “then they’re already overcooked.”
Combine the topping and the croutes at the last minute.
The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen by Paula Wolfert. Copyright © 2003 by Paula Wolfert. Photographs copyright © by Christopher Hirsheimer. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.