Tarhana is a rustic cereal with a gentle, sour flavor, which comes from the addition of, among other things, yogurt, soured milk, or yeast. There are many versions of rustic pasta in the eastern Mediterranean with different combinations of grains and flavorings.
Most of the tarhana soups I’ve tasted—even in Turkey, where they are a winter evening staple—have been filling and nutritious, but also somewhat bland. Not so this version from the Black Sea town of Amasra. It is, in my opinion, absolutely wonderful.
The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen by Paula Wolfert. Copyright © 2003 by Paula Wolfert. Photographs copyright © by Christopher Hirsheimer. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.