My daughter, Leila, who grew up in Morocco and is now a wine consultant, likes to cook tagines and other slow-simmered dishes from her childhood. But after a tasting trip to France, she became interested in French farmhouse dishes. I told her about a delicious dish of veal shanks smothered in carrots, chestnuts, and chanterelles.
Unfortunately, the dish didn't sound very “farmhouse” to her, and she doesn't think that veal is flavorful—or politically correct. My advice was to dispense with both the ethical and the flavor issues by buying grass-fed veal, which is tastier than the grain-fed kind. I told her that the dish was simpler than it sounded and that it would go wonderfully with her French wines.
When she prepared it for a dinner party, she found that I was right. “Plus we had a great time coaxing out the marrow—with bamboo skewers, espresso spoons, and our fingers,” she said. “We even decided to name the dish The Veal Shank Redemption.”
The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen by Paula Wolfert. Copyright © 2003 by Paula Wolfert. Photographs copyright © by Christopher Hirsheimer. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.