In this recipe I apply to large meaty lamb shanks an old-fashioned method from the Pyrenees traditionally used to prepare wild game. The shanks are marinated overnight in hearty cooked red wine (see chef Thomas Keller’s note), then gently stewed until fork-tender.

A final addition of a picada of well-pounded toasted almonds and unsweetened cocoa produces an ethereal flavor. Picadas in this part of Catalonia are judged by the smoothness of the final sauce. In this dish, the cook should try for a creamy béchamel-like texture. Please marinate the lamb shanks overnight before cooking.