Rhubarb Custard Tart

People who love making rhubarb tarts tend to fall into two groups, each battling the other with the vigor of hockey players. The first group insists on simmering the rhubarb before baking it in a tart shell. Members of the second group are appalled. “Cooking rhubarb twice? For the most vibrant flavor, just sugar it, juice it, then add it raw to the filling.”

It’s true that sugar will temper raw rhubarb. The late British food writer Jane Grig-son, who wasn’t all that fond of rhubarb,