When Cheryl was a teenager in Illinois a couple of generations ago, she didn’t know there was any particular heat difference in various kinds of fresh chiles. She read about a chile rellenos dish in a cookbook, made with somewhat mild New Mexican or Anaheim pods. She couldn’t find those chiles in the store so bought instead incendiary jalapeños. The batter-dipped and fried chiles turned out to be a disastrous main dish, but her family still kids her about having invented th