Terrine of chicken livers and pork fillet

One Soho institution that has disappeared, with few mourners to regret its passing, is the small, seedy, private drinking club. These poky little places only really functioned in the afternoon, serving die-hard drinkers during the two and a half hours between lunch and dinner. All-afternoon opening hours in pubs effectively finished them off. One of the seediest was Le Caveau at 49 Frith Street, in the basement. It was run by a grumpy Frenchman called Jacques, a lousy barman but a marvellou