Frith Street tortilla platter

For many years Soho was the proud possessor of London’s only Mexican restaurant, La Cucaracha in Greek Street. The name means cockroach in Spanish, which is hardly the most prepossessing title for a restaurant. They served real Mexican food: dishes that have stuck in my mind include turkey in a chocolate molé sauce and pork baked in a banana leaf. The cooking wasn’t great and the place rather grim, so it was no surprise when it shut, coincidentally about the time that Tex-Mex restaurants st