Nick Lander, the original owner of the reopened L’Escargot, is from Lancashire like me, and his only stipulation, as I planned the first menu for him, was that Bury black puddings be on it. They arrived courtesy of Red Star Express twice a week, and were a huge hit from the very first lunch. Lancashire black pudding, whilst indubitably the best in the world, can under certain conditions tend towards dryness. Thi
