Grilled squid with chermoula

Squid seems so ubiquitous today that it is hard to believe how scarce, exotic and paradoxically cheap it was twenty years ago. Virtually unobtainable over much of Britain, it could only be found where large immigrant communities demanded it. Soho’s Chinese, Italians and Maltese all fell into this category.

Cooking squid is generally regarded as a bit of a tricky business, conventional wisdom stating that to be tender it must be either very briefly seared (a matter of seconds only) o