Moules marinières

Probably the most misspelled name in the history of menu writing, although mayonnaise will run it a close second. On virtually every Soho menu twenty years ago, the dish seems to have died in popularity, or probably everyone who wants to eat moules is piling into Belgo in Covent Garden, where I understand they serve little else. (My one attempt to eat at Belgo was aborted on being informed that there was a 30-minute wait in the queue.) The Old Compton Wine Bar always had two mussel dishes o