Scallops with papaya salad and sweet chilli sauce

Pacific Rim, an inelegant term more reminiscent of dubious sexual practices in Bangkok than a style of cooking, has been one of the dominant culinary trends of the late 1990s. With the arrival on my doorstep of The Sugar Club, Soho has definitely joined the international food movement. This dish is my response to this all-conquering trend, although I have to say that East-West fusion dishes have been on my menus for twenty-five years.

The papaya salad is a quietened-down version of