Sizzling ceps

One of the great improvements made over the last twenty years as far as restaurant supplies are concerned has been the ever-increasing availability of wild mushrooms. At the Old Compton Wine Bar in the 1970s the only people who offered wild mushrooms were either Poles or Italians, who picked them themselves and then went round the restaurants of Soho hawking their wares. Consequently wild mushrooms didn’t feature regularly on my menu and when I did offer them, the customers were none too ke