Maison Bertaux’s cheese soufflé tart

Maison Bertaux, the pâtisserie on Greek Street, is possibly the only survivor of all the French businesses in Soho. Opened in 1871, it is owned today by Michèle Wade, a charming and energetic proprietrix if there ever was one. She has maintained the high standards of M et Mme Vignaud, her predecessors, though she doesn’t hide behind the front door like the harassed Monsieur did. I dropped in there the other day to buy some croissants and Michèle popped one of her delicious