Calf’s kidney with caramelised shallots

A constant and depressing theme in this book has been the closure of Soho’s food shops. Butchers are no exception. Soho had three superb butchers: an Italian one, Bifulco Stores on the corner of Old Compton and Frith; a French one, the butchery section of Randall & Aubin with its drunken Irish cutter; and an English one named after a firm of lawyers, Slater & Cooke, Bisney (or was it Disney?) & Jones. The last one was a forbidding place, unbelievably clean, very expensive, and t