Roast salt beef with a mustard crust

Great Windmill Street once boasted the Windmill Theatre where, since time immemorial, statuesque dancers posed topless– under the obscenity laws then prevailing they were not allowed to move a muscle. Despite this handicap the theatre is remembered with fondness approaching reverence by Soho’s dirty-mac brigade. This was, of course, long before my time and I certainly remember the street for a completely different reason: Carroll’s salt beef bar. This truly remarkable café, covered in signe